Hunting Season

This week, the hunting season has been opened.
After several very interesting experiences with The Boston Trader, I must conclude it is a brand managed with a great deal of passion and dedication. Unfortunately, I must also conclude passion and management don't always match too harmoniously, and currently I shan't be finding myself on their payroll. Business simply wasn't "up" enough..
A shame indeed, as it would be a marvellous experience indeed. The team seems fun, knowledgeable and pleasant. The store a good place to learn.

While in The Hague, I discovered Inditex -the Spanish global textile company behind Zara and Bershka among other- is opening a new Massimo Dutti there. The up-brand version of Zara as it has been described to me on occasions, Massimo Dutti was founded as an independent company in 1985, and later became part of the Inditex universe. This soon to be branch was still heavily under construction last week.

Focussing on classy wear for the up-market segment, Massimo Dutti is certainly a lot more than simply a more expensive Zara. The products seem to be a bit more "down to earth", lacking the frivolities that sometimes quite aptly ruin Zara's designs, and feature far more attention to detail and fabric. The brand also provides sports-wear inspired apparel, based on mainly equestrianism and sailing/golf, albeit in a far more subtle way than, say, Ralph Lauran and its distinct prep-flavour.

After taking my knowledge of Inditex and Massimo out of the kiddy-pool and into the 2-feet deep last week, I went to the site to see if I might find a person of responsibility, and to my surprise, the shop had opened! Staff managed to inform me it had done so Friday last, which in itself has been an impressive feat.

Inside, I had a peak about and a chat with the (predominantly Spanish speaking) staff. The store looked good, with warm lighting and an intimate atmosphere. I had come here to find Paula Meesterburrie of Inditex NL (to whom applications should be directed according to the leaflet on the door last week), but she unfortunately wasn't there.

A few phone-calls later, I had discovered she also wasn't at the main office in Amsterdam, and generally a hard to track down woman if I might believe both the office and the staff in The Hague. I did manage to get hold of her mobile phone number, and had a chance to discover what her voice-mail sounds like.

Now, attentive readers might think: "why all this trouble? Doesn't she have an e-mail address?"

Well, naturally, she does. Moreover, a post and e-mail address were the only pieces of information initially provided. However, in this modern day and age, we seem to have made digital connections and the Social Media an almost absolute substitute for personal impressions. I am a great fan and value them greatly (which is why I feel at liberty to say this), but especially when looking for a job, I believe it to be key to actually see the person you're dealing with. That goes for both the potential employer, as the employee.

Sure, it's an extra effort. Sure some people might be put off by it even. But this is something that I want. It looks like a great company to work with, and I am willing to do what lies in my power to get a shot at doing so. I hope mevr. Meesterburrie will appreciate the effort, and I hope she'll be willing to give me 15 minutes of her time to make my case. And I trust someone in such a function will have the open mind to do just that.

So, today I will be venturing to try and "catch" Paula Meesterburrie of Inditex Nederland, and hopefully land me a job at Massimo Dutti. Should I fail to reach her, perhaps I will just send her my Curriculum and motivation (it's already waiting for the "send"-click), or leave a message on her voice-mail. I don't know what will happen, but can only hope for the best.

The Hunting Season is open.

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”

  –Oscar Wilde

Santa Baby: Buttons and Shawls

Today has been another chilly day, but an informal one. And what better way to enjoy the comforts of winter warmth than with a good ol' knitted cardigan?

The one in the picture above is of a style I've had my eye on for quite some time now. Executed with buttons and a shawl-collar, this warm cardigan is both classy and comfortable.

The buttons allow for a wide variety of fastenings. Ranging from being buttoned up all the way (leave the lowest button undone, for easier movement and a more elegant drape), to having as deep an opening as one wants. Leaving it open all the way is of course an option too. As an added bonus, the buttons don't create the same awkward bellowing as a zip tends to do, and provide the opportunity of adding some additional colour to the item.

The shawl-collar looks more refined than a simple collarless neck, and when popped up, helps keep the neck warm. Executed in a heavier knit, this cardigan looks well in place over long-sleeves, T-shirts and Polo's, but equally good when paired with a (dress-)shirt of some sorts. A tie adds a great bit of elegance, and can be kept neatly in place by buttoning the cardigan. Choose a fuller, warmer hue, regardless of wearing silk or wool. Alternatively, add a bow-tie for some playful class.

Wearable as an outer layer in fall or spring, and adding that extra bit of warmth in winter, a heavy knit cardigan with buttons and a shawl-collar is bound to be a welcome item in ones wardrobe. Santa, pay heed.

Santa Baby

Over the last few weeks and especially days, I've heard (and been involved in) more and more conversations concerning the Winter Season, unprepared/outdated wardrobes, and holiday gift-shopping.

As such, I have decided to combine the subjects into a series of posts directed at good old Santa Claus. Included will be both items from my personal wish-list and (gift-)advise for anyone interested. Ranging from essentials to the slightly more exotic, I hope to spark some inspiration for all you holiday shoppers out there.  And of course deliver my own contribution to boasting the economy. Sort of.

Winter's come early

Green Tweed, paired with Silk, via Permanent Style

Winter's come to town early this year, and as I sit yet with only the light of a desk lamp and two candles, the white roofs outside remind me that it's time to reorganise the wardrobe. As with food, music and moods, closets also change with the seasons.

With the temperature dropping, naturally comes the need for warmer clothing. Fabrics get thicker, and layers more plentiful. Winter's the time for creativity with accessories, especially for men, who are usually rather restricted in this field. Silks make up for the roughness of flannel and tweed. Neckerchiefs and Ascots add a subtle bit of classiness and warmth to outfits not sporting a neck-tie, and can even go far in adding some class to an otherwise very urban or casual outfit. The occasional cardigan, waistcoat, even hoodie or whatnot, gives opportunity for an added pop of colour.

On the outer layers, cashmere, silk and merino-wool keep the neck and chest warm in forms of scarves, draped in many styles and ways. They close the gaps on tweed jackets and warm overcoats. Sometimes leather jackets if the temperatures don't drop too low.

Layering for winter, via Loro Piana

With winter also come the vast differences between inside and outside temperatures, making layering a must. Of course the outer layer comes off when entering an indoor premises, but even then having options is usually more than welcome (especially considering the differences between indoors-environments). Now is the time for jerseys, cardigans, matching or odd waistcoats, multiple layers of shirtings, and more. Creativity is the key-word, as the options are almost limitless, as long as one keeps in might the setting one might be in. For the most formal occasions, keep in mind not all layers need to be visible of course.

As winter rears its frosty head, fabrics, habits and colours in wardrobes change. Like it or not, the seasons are a fact, and I'd rather work with what I can't fight. Tomorrow I'll be looking to purchase a good new pair of shoes for the season.

Not just true for (semi-)Formal

Ensuring a properly fitting neck on your jackets helps to give not only an air of elegance, but also the impression the wearer actually owns the suit. Unfortunately, this is of course largely an issue of make and fit.

Showing shirt collar - preferably an inch or more - gives a clean, finished touch to an ensemble and helps to flatteringly elongate the neckline. Done by simply holding on to the shirt-collar with one hand, and gently tugging the bottom of the jacket after putting it on with the other, this simple detail gives the impression the wearer knows what he's doing, and feels comfortable in a suit.
Done properly, few will realise why, but most will recognise one is dressed well.

Next time, show some collar.

Crisp White Linen: of Complement and Contrast:

Recess is over, and today I'd like to share my thoughts on one of the basics of dressing well.

To me, one of the fundamentals of looking good -not just in dress, but in aesthetics in general, for that matter-  is the play between complement and contrast. Simply put, the eye wants something that is both interesting and pleasant. As such, one has to find a balance between using elements that are harmonious, and those that spark each other off. Like a good relationship, basically.

Seen on both Kanye West above, and the Italian gentleman to the right, the crisp white linen pocket square is often quoted as the fundamental square. Whether puffed or folded, and almost regardless of which colours combined with, a clean linen pocket square in white looks good, and appropriate in almost any worsted suit's breast-pocket. And there's a reason for that.

The basics of working with contrast and complement are colour and texture, and white linen works with both: the crisp clean white contrasts with the inevitably darker background of the suit jacket. The stronger the difference in colour, the stronger the effect. This creates something playful and interesting for the eye to look at, and helps give a feeling of completion to an outfit. On the other hand, the matte linen is in line with the relative "un-shininess" of the jacket (most commonly made out of wool). This helps to ease in the square, and creates a feeling of wholesomeness and belonging.

Were one to pick, say, a silk white square on the same suit, the contrast would have been much greater, and quite possibly have taken away from the overall charm. Of course it can be pulled off, and don't forget a pocket square and suit are only two elements making the sum of a gentleman's outfit. But then again, this is not a post advocating against wearing anything other than white linen, but simply to explain my views on why it works.

If there is one thing I might teach you in all these posts, let it be this - Complement and Contrast. Oh, and to buy your(-self/ man) a white linen square. It never hurts.