To me, one of the fundamentals of looking good -not just in dress, but in aesthetics in general, for that matter- is the play between complement and contrast. Simply put, the eye wants something that is both interesting and pleasant. As such, one has to find a balance between using elements that are harmonious, and those that spark each other off. Like a good relationship, basically.
Seen on both Kanye West above, and the Italian gentleman to the right, the crisp white linen pocket square is often quoted as the fundamental square. Whether puffed or folded, and almost regardless of which colours combined with, a clean linen pocket square in white looks good, and appropriate in almost any worsted suit's breast-pocket. And there's a reason for that.
The basics of working with contrast and complement are colour and texture, and white linen works with both: the crisp clean white contrasts with the inevitably darker background of the suit jacket. The stronger the difference in colour, the stronger the effect. This creates something playful and interesting for the eye to look at, and helps give a feeling of completion to an outfit. On the other hand, the matte linen is in line with the relative "un-shininess" of the jacket (most commonly made out of wool). This helps to ease in the square, and creates a feeling of wholesomeness and belonging.
Were one to pick, say, a silk white square on the same suit, the contrast would have been much greater, and quite possibly have taken away from the overall charm. Of course it can be pulled off, and don't forget a pocket square and suit are only two elements making the sum of a gentleman's outfit. But then again, this is not a post advocating against wearing anything other than white linen, but simply to explain my views on why it works.
If there is one thing I might teach you in all these posts, let it be this - Complement and Contrast. Oh, and to buy your(-self/ man) a white linen square. It never hurts.
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