Dress like a compliment

Use of colour is one of the great pleasures of dressing. However, when selecting the day's outfit, one has to be careful not to look like the result of "creativity hour" in kindergarten, as dressing too loudly can look obtrusive and distract the attention from the wearer. To help the gentlemen of society avoid such fiascos, is one of the reasons style guides advise matching your belt and shoes exactly, and retailers sell pocket-square and tie combos made out of the exact same fabric. It is also the reason men limit themselves to dressing in two colours, with tie either copying suit or shirt, and when donning a square, having it similar to tie or shirt again.

There is only one problem with these scientifically equated solutions to dressing well: it has an air of stiff, boring and most of all, gives the impression that one tried too hard.

As with a compliment, one's attire should look personal, sincere and not too well thought through to be appreciated. An air of spontaneity always helps.
 
And like a compliment can sometimes be too much and rather awkward, and the same compliment be regarded as pleasant and forgotten moments later in a different setting, so should one's dress always be befitting of the circumstances.
Sure, some of us may be more flamboyant, and some prefer subtle minimalism, but there are limits either way. These are not called rules, but the boundaries of good taste.

So, dress like a compliment, and let your dress complement you.

Expect more posts detailing this subject in the future.

Watch this: The Night of the Navy Blue Blazer

Great video, filled with energy, playfulness and personalisation.
(Though obviously not to be taken literally)



May it inspire us all to take a fresh new look at our old clothes.

For your consideration: the Denim Suit

I've always been a big fan of classic gentlemen's clothing. Certain styles of dress are - I believe - simply routed in the belief that a gentleman's attire should work to make his figure look the best way possible and show his respect for those around him, and (what would now be described as) the classical men's suit, does just this.

That given, the definition of this men's suit can be seen in a very broad way, with nearly limitless options for personalisations in terms of fabric, details, etc..

Personally, I'm inclined to suits, and jackets, and clothing inspired by tradition, but one of the reasons I like them is their function, and functionality. However, I am not always in the office, out for dinner in fancy restaurants, or chairing a General Assembly, and young bird as I may be, I like to be able to live my clothes hard every now and then without loosing the sense of style and personality I enjoy in my clothing.

via The Sartorialist

Therefore, I would like to suggest the Denim suit, in a classy dark blue. Sturdy and practical, yet flattering of the masculine shape and a wink to tradition. When paired with a smooth shirt and perhaps a knit tie or elegant pocket square, one looks urban, yet classy. Sporty, but elegant. And of course, the pieces could also be worn separately perfectly fine. (Who would object to a well-made pair of denims?)

Where Tweed might sometimes be too warm or (surprisingly) too flashy, the Denim suit can make for the perfect casual stylish suit in the city whenever a bit more ruggedness is needed or wanted (at least in appearance). It also serves as a transitional piece from jeans to more formal wear.

Really, it's all in the make. Therefore, for your consideration: the Denim Suit.

“I think it’s a real shame that we’ve got to the point where people who want to dress nicely feel embarrassed to do so. That they feel they can’t wear both a tie and a pocket handkerchief because of how it will be perceived. It’s depressing to me.”

- Patrick Grant (Norton & Sons)

The difference a button makes

Wear odd buttons on your odd jackets and casual suits.

Except for those working in a suit 5 days a week, I'd argue that the majority of jacket-wearers wear them without matching trousers. Depressingly though, one far to often sees people dressed in odd jackets looking ass if they simply "forgot the pants".

One way this can be prevented, and helps add an additional air of freedom, nonchalance and visual interest, is by choosing complementary coloured buttons to your suitings, as opposed to strictly matching them completely. Oh, and choose horn buttons over plastic if you can.

Whether this is done to give a casual suit a lighter air, or to make a jacket look like it's exactly that: "just a jacket", odd buttons do wonders for a less formal look.

Wear odd buttons on your odd jackets.

The Boston Trader

The Boston Trader is a mid-class clothing retailer in The Hague, and one of my top picks as potential employers. Having opened its first store in 1985, TBT now has three stores and stock a label - R.B. Boston - which I am fairly certain is their own. They cater to both men and women, although the only establishment I am familiar with is the men's store, and judging from their elaborate website and newspaper(!), the men's department seems to be the main business.

Offering brands such as Armani and Paul Smith, there is a clear focus on the upper mid-segment of retail clothing, although The Boston Trader seems to offer both casual and more formal wear.

Having browsed the men's store and the website several times now, one of the things appealing to me is the mix of Anglo-Saxon heritage and Italian sprezzura. The collections seem to attempt a style with a potentially broad audience, and although often-times pieces are better an indication of what is attempted than actual execution, the idea seems to be there: slightly dandy and slightly brash clothing, with a wink to formal rules but enough playfulness to keep things personal and lively.

The house is also small enough (with three establishments and the house line) to be influenced by anyone on staff. It seemed as though every member of staff present had a personal connection, understanding and feeling with the items on offer, and all have probably contributed in one way or another to shaping the store they work in. This, of course, is exactly what every employee and employer should be looking for: a sense of ownership for everyone.

In times like this, however, I believe that the average is the bottom. Cheap survives because it is, well, cheap. But quality has a tendency to wither the tougher times too, as there are always people who want that little extra. And a little piece of (semi)perfection makes us all feel better and happy, especially in grimmer times.

The Boston Trader is above average, granted, but perhaps a little (extra) touch of special, quality and detail could make all the difference. Price-wise they could afford it, as branding adds a lot to price as well with their current stock.

So, perhaps stubborn little me might be able to contribute a bit. And if not, I feel there is plenty there to learn for me as well. Staff seems experienced and knowledgeable, and the atmosphere appeals to me. Who knows, I might even be able to learn a thing or two about women's clothing.

Tomorrow I'll apply, with my curriculum vitae and a cover-letter in the men's wear store, Plaats 3, The Hague. From then on it is in the hands of the high lords of Human Resources and lady Fortuna. I am exited, and anxious - let's see how far no formal experience can take me..

First, dinner plans tonight though. May Fortuna grant me her favour here too, as I am cooking out.

Green, wear it (with blue)

via The Sartorialist

I am a big fan of the colour green. Although never a standard choice in men's attire, we seem to have all but lost green, and especially olive-drab like variants, to military clothing and items seeking to resemble that. This is a shame.

Dark green has much potential, especially in terms of suitings (or other big contributors to ones attire). Because of its rich, full and mature hue, it doesn't attract too much attention, but still manages to be subtly different and expressive. I do not advocate the colour in the more formal settings, but generally, the colour can find its place in City, Sub-Urb and Countryside alike.
 
Paired with a lighter blue, green looks especially great, giving a very normal yet uncommon impression. Looking good, without demanding attention.
 
 Green can be for your major items, what purple is for the details: an acquired skill, with great potential for subtle personification. Just be careful with the reds. (Although, Christmas is coming..)

Exploring the Field -part 2

In the world of clothing there are many places to go that are eager to facilitate in the shopper's needs. Today I'd like to share my findings from the world of "retail houses".

As someone who does not regularly shop in the Netherlands for the more refined pieces - England, Italy and thrifting seem to far better cater to my needs (be it fit, quality, or price-quality comparison) - I must admit I felt a bit in unfamiliar waters when shopping around for places to apply.

Oger is a well-known house, considered by many to be the crème-de-la-crème of gentlemen's fine clothing in the country, but my occasional visit to the various premisses of Oger (pronounced Ogér, as in French) yielded me the impression that there was nothing to shop for.
Be it the staff's attire: consistently wearing their trousers at a length suggesting they stole them from the children's department to adequately show off their eternally mismatched shoes in preferably overly light cognac, to match the tasteless splash (or should I say torrent) of contrast-coloured stitching wherever possible, all suggesting a sort of peer-pressure invoked need to dress as foolish and loud as possible to "demonstrate" a sense of style and fashion. Not to mention their attitude towards customers being equally clownish and snobbish. No the "gentlemen" of Oger still have much to learn concerning manners, be it in dress or behaviour.
Granted, their knowledge of sartorial affairs is well above that of the average punter, and the collections contain many a desirable piece (frankly excluding most of Oger's own line), but it still is nothing compared to the better houses in Great Britain and Italy, and the premium paid on the prices makes it almost worthwhile to shop abroad for that reason too.

However, I digress. There were several maisons I'd be happy to apply to, though non where I found a vacancy. A trip down memory lane (and my closet) brought a very specific shop to my attention: The Boston Trader. Although I must admit that over a third of their stock is a bit to scruffy of flashy for my personal taste and the name's appalling, I have bought two of my first suits here - a dark-grey herringbone and a beige and grey glen-check with a mid-blue over-check - and I usually am pleased by the displays in their windows.
I also see potential at The Boston Trader, both for me, and the store. So much so, I've decided to move it to my top-pick for now, and will write on it more elaborately in a separate post.

My last two picks are Eduard Pelger, a 150 year old Dutch establishment selling brands such as Church shoes, and Borelli ties and shirts, that I was previously unacquainted with, and Maison de Bonneterie, which does have several openings for sales staff.

After the weekend I shall start the open applications and applying to the aforementioned vacancies. I'm curious (and sceptical) to see how things will turn out.

Meanwhile, I've started sketching, and (re)discoverd I have no drawing-skills whatsoever..