Winter's come early

Green Tweed, paired with Silk, via Permanent Style

Winter's come to town early this year, and as I sit yet with only the light of a desk lamp and two candles, the white roofs outside remind me that it's time to reorganise the wardrobe. As with food, music and moods, closets also change with the seasons.

With the temperature dropping, naturally comes the need for warmer clothing. Fabrics get thicker, and layers more plentiful. Winter's the time for creativity with accessories, especially for men, who are usually rather restricted in this field. Silks make up for the roughness of flannel and tweed. Neckerchiefs and Ascots add a subtle bit of classiness and warmth to outfits not sporting a neck-tie, and can even go far in adding some class to an otherwise very urban or casual outfit. The occasional cardigan, waistcoat, even hoodie or whatnot, gives opportunity for an added pop of colour.

On the outer layers, cashmere, silk and merino-wool keep the neck and chest warm in forms of scarves, draped in many styles and ways. They close the gaps on tweed jackets and warm overcoats. Sometimes leather jackets if the temperatures don't drop too low.

Layering for winter, via Loro Piana

With winter also come the vast differences between inside and outside temperatures, making layering a must. Of course the outer layer comes off when entering an indoor premises, but even then having options is usually more than welcome (especially considering the differences between indoors-environments). Now is the time for jerseys, cardigans, matching or odd waistcoats, multiple layers of shirtings, and more. Creativity is the key-word, as the options are almost limitless, as long as one keeps in might the setting one might be in. For the most formal occasions, keep in mind not all layers need to be visible of course.

As winter rears its frosty head, fabrics, habits and colours in wardrobes change. Like it or not, the seasons are a fact, and I'd rather work with what I can't fight. Tomorrow I'll be looking to purchase a good new pair of shoes for the season.

Colours, Stars and Stripes

A few days back I wrote a bit on colour, and dressing without looking artificial. One of the ways to do so, is by matching secondary colours. And one way of matching secondary colours, once perhaps not a wardrobe staple but far more common than it is today, is the multi-coloured striped suit.

Seen here worn by Gossip Girl's Chuck Bass, the suit in charcoal with a fine alternating orange and blue-purple stripe almost looks solid from afar, but helps to pull together the peach shirt, red-purple and orange pocket square and purple paisley tie (which also has traces of orange, peach and possibly even blue). But most impressively, it helps the slightly dandified boutonnière to blend in with the outfit and look acceptable for the circumstances.

Naturally, most of us won't frequently be donning a tie, pocket-square and boutonnière with our suits at the same time, but Mr. Bass provides us with a good example of the synergistic effects a multi-coloured stripe can have. Best when executed in colours that blend together from afar, a pattern like this can look conservative and creative, with space for subtle display of personality. After all, it's all in the details.


So, next time you're looking for a suit with a twist, consider the multi-coloured stripe.

For your consideration: the Denim Suit

I've always been a big fan of classic gentlemen's clothing. Certain styles of dress are - I believe - simply routed in the belief that a gentleman's attire should work to make his figure look the best way possible and show his respect for those around him, and (what would now be described as) the classical men's suit, does just this.

That given, the definition of this men's suit can be seen in a very broad way, with nearly limitless options for personalisations in terms of fabric, details, etc..

Personally, I'm inclined to suits, and jackets, and clothing inspired by tradition, but one of the reasons I like them is their function, and functionality. However, I am not always in the office, out for dinner in fancy restaurants, or chairing a General Assembly, and young bird as I may be, I like to be able to live my clothes hard every now and then without loosing the sense of style and personality I enjoy in my clothing.

via The Sartorialist

Therefore, I would like to suggest the Denim suit, in a classy dark blue. Sturdy and practical, yet flattering of the masculine shape and a wink to tradition. When paired with a smooth shirt and perhaps a knit tie or elegant pocket square, one looks urban, yet classy. Sporty, but elegant. And of course, the pieces could also be worn separately perfectly fine. (Who would object to a well-made pair of denims?)

Where Tweed might sometimes be too warm or (surprisingly) too flashy, the Denim suit can make for the perfect casual stylish suit in the city whenever a bit more ruggedness is needed or wanted (at least in appearance). It also serves as a transitional piece from jeans to more formal wear.

Really, it's all in the make. Therefore, for your consideration: the Denim Suit.

The difference a button makes

Wear odd buttons on your odd jackets and casual suits.

Except for those working in a suit 5 days a week, I'd argue that the majority of jacket-wearers wear them without matching trousers. Depressingly though, one far to often sees people dressed in odd jackets looking ass if they simply "forgot the pants".

One way this can be prevented, and helps add an additional air of freedom, nonchalance and visual interest, is by choosing complementary coloured buttons to your suitings, as opposed to strictly matching them completely. Oh, and choose horn buttons over plastic if you can.

Whether this is done to give a casual suit a lighter air, or to make a jacket look like it's exactly that: "just a jacket", odd buttons do wonders for a less formal look.

Wear odd buttons on your odd jackets.

Green, wear it (with blue)

via The Sartorialist

I am a big fan of the colour green. Although never a standard choice in men's attire, we seem to have all but lost green, and especially olive-drab like variants, to military clothing and items seeking to resemble that. This is a shame.

Dark green has much potential, especially in terms of suitings (or other big contributors to ones attire). Because of its rich, full and mature hue, it doesn't attract too much attention, but still manages to be subtly different and expressive. I do not advocate the colour in the more formal settings, but generally, the colour can find its place in City, Sub-Urb and Countryside alike.
 
Paired with a lighter blue, green looks especially great, giving a very normal yet uncommon impression. Looking good, without demanding attention.
 
 Green can be for your major items, what purple is for the details: an acquired skill, with great potential for subtle personification. Just be careful with the reds. (Although, Christmas is coming..)