Last of the Mohicans: Shoes at Cleverly's

Bespoke shoemakers George Cleverly, maintaining an age-old tradition, and building relationships lasting longer than marriages.

Not sure if the latter is desirable, but I'd be more than happy to give it a try when the time comes..

"I suppose what I am saying is that, worn well, pocket squares look fantastic; worn poorly, they look awful – far worse than not wearing one at all."

Matt Clark (in Men's Flair)

The Difference a Crease makes

Today will be a relatively casual day here in wintery Delft, and a good opportunity to share a lesson I learned when I first started to wear army-issue trousers a few years back.
These trousers, made out of heavy material and with thigh pockets, were to me a very practical and rugged alternative to the tidal waves of jeans that seemed to be all but drowning my peer-group.

via Loro Piana

Wanting to look far from an urban militant (or straight-out douche), I always took great care in maintaining their carefully pressed crease. This ensured an air of civilisation -almost classiness even- about them, and before I knew it, I was being complimented on my oh so decent appearance. It also helped that I only wear solids, and don't pair them with black oversized hoodies..

Soon after, I started experimenting with my other more casual leg-wear. For some it worked, for some it didn't, and before I knew it, I was wearing over half of my trousers creased.

Once applied through a good wet-ironing, a crease is easily maintained by folding the trousers correctly, and hanging them to dry by the legs using four pegs to let the creases sink back in. Personally, I prefer to have the crease come up all the way the leg and fade out on the front and posterior. Some like them all the way to the top of the trousers. I haven't decisively come across proper etiquette for this, so as far as I'm concerned, it's a matter of personal taste.

In a nutshell: creased trousers can take a casual outfit from sloppy to refined, and aren't nearly as hard to maintain as it might sounds.
Consider creasing your trousers.

Santa Baby: I like it Horny

Dear Santa,

Thank you in advance for all the wonderful gifts. I can only hope to be as good as to deserve them. As I realise you and your helpers have many presents to get, for many children - big and small - I just wanted you to know I'd be happy with a small present too:

A set of horn buttons.

Mummy taught me sometimes the small things make a big difference. I was thinking I could maybe replace the standard plastic buttons on my jacket with some nice ones in horn. They look so much warmer, and add a bit of interest with their colouring. Plus, it's so much easier to look like a million quid when you get the details right!

I know they're sometimes hard to find, especially in some countries; people in the UK seem to be a bit blessed that way, as well as those who live in places with more of a living artisan culture. But you know: I'm not very picky! They can be matching in dark browns that look almost black for my formal suits, or lighter, brighter colours to spice up the casual ones and odd jackets. I can put them on my coats, my cardigans or jackets.

I guess what I'm trying to say, dear Santa, is that I'd be happy with any nice horn buttons to make my stuff look nice. I'll sow them on myself (or let Mummy do so if I can't), and I don't mind if they come from an old piece you thrifted somewhere. You see Santa, it doesn't always have to be expensive, and a few pounds often do the trick.

It just takes time and effort, and that shows you care..
(Don't worry, I know you do!)

Hunting Season

This week, the hunting season has been opened.
After several very interesting experiences with The Boston Trader, I must conclude it is a brand managed with a great deal of passion and dedication. Unfortunately, I must also conclude passion and management don't always match too harmoniously, and currently I shan't be finding myself on their payroll. Business simply wasn't "up" enough..
A shame indeed, as it would be a marvellous experience indeed. The team seems fun, knowledgeable and pleasant. The store a good place to learn.

While in The Hague, I discovered Inditex -the Spanish global textile company behind Zara and Bershka among other- is opening a new Massimo Dutti there. The up-brand version of Zara as it has been described to me on occasions, Massimo Dutti was founded as an independent company in 1985, and later became part of the Inditex universe. This soon to be branch was still heavily under construction last week.

Focussing on classy wear for the up-market segment, Massimo Dutti is certainly a lot more than simply a more expensive Zara. The products seem to be a bit more "down to earth", lacking the frivolities that sometimes quite aptly ruin Zara's designs, and feature far more attention to detail and fabric. The brand also provides sports-wear inspired apparel, based on mainly equestrianism and sailing/golf, albeit in a far more subtle way than, say, Ralph Lauran and its distinct prep-flavour.

After taking my knowledge of Inditex and Massimo out of the kiddy-pool and into the 2-feet deep last week, I went to the site to see if I might find a person of responsibility, and to my surprise, the shop had opened! Staff managed to inform me it had done so Friday last, which in itself has been an impressive feat.

Inside, I had a peak about and a chat with the (predominantly Spanish speaking) staff. The store looked good, with warm lighting and an intimate atmosphere. I had come here to find Paula Meesterburrie of Inditex NL (to whom applications should be directed according to the leaflet on the door last week), but she unfortunately wasn't there.

A few phone-calls later, I had discovered she also wasn't at the main office in Amsterdam, and generally a hard to track down woman if I might believe both the office and the staff in The Hague. I did manage to get hold of her mobile phone number, and had a chance to discover what her voice-mail sounds like.

Now, attentive readers might think: "why all this trouble? Doesn't she have an e-mail address?"

Well, naturally, she does. Moreover, a post and e-mail address were the only pieces of information initially provided. However, in this modern day and age, we seem to have made digital connections and the Social Media an almost absolute substitute for personal impressions. I am a great fan and value them greatly (which is why I feel at liberty to say this), but especially when looking for a job, I believe it to be key to actually see the person you're dealing with. That goes for both the potential employer, as the employee.

Sure, it's an extra effort. Sure some people might be put off by it even. But this is something that I want. It looks like a great company to work with, and I am willing to do what lies in my power to get a shot at doing so. I hope mevr. Meesterburrie will appreciate the effort, and I hope she'll be willing to give me 15 minutes of her time to make my case. And I trust someone in such a function will have the open mind to do just that.

So, today I will be venturing to try and "catch" Paula Meesterburrie of Inditex Nederland, and hopefully land me a job at Massimo Dutti. Should I fail to reach her, perhaps I will just send her my Curriculum and motivation (it's already waiting for the "send"-click), or leave a message on her voice-mail. I don't know what will happen, but can only hope for the best.

The Hunting Season is open.

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”

  –Oscar Wilde

Santa Baby: Buttons and Shawls

Today has been another chilly day, but an informal one. And what better way to enjoy the comforts of winter warmth than with a good ol' knitted cardigan?

The one in the picture above is of a style I've had my eye on for quite some time now. Executed with buttons and a shawl-collar, this warm cardigan is both classy and comfortable.

The buttons allow for a wide variety of fastenings. Ranging from being buttoned up all the way (leave the lowest button undone, for easier movement and a more elegant drape), to having as deep an opening as one wants. Leaving it open all the way is of course an option too. As an added bonus, the buttons don't create the same awkward bellowing as a zip tends to do, and provide the opportunity of adding some additional colour to the item.

The shawl-collar looks more refined than a simple collarless neck, and when popped up, helps keep the neck warm. Executed in a heavier knit, this cardigan looks well in place over long-sleeves, T-shirts and Polo's, but equally good when paired with a (dress-)shirt of some sorts. A tie adds a great bit of elegance, and can be kept neatly in place by buttoning the cardigan. Choose a fuller, warmer hue, regardless of wearing silk or wool. Alternatively, add a bow-tie for some playful class.

Wearable as an outer layer in fall or spring, and adding that extra bit of warmth in winter, a heavy knit cardigan with buttons and a shawl-collar is bound to be a welcome item in ones wardrobe. Santa, pay heed.